Tag Archive | deer

Keep Deer-Damaged Hedges


Deer damaged hedge

By now, it is no longer news that deer love classic hedging evergreens such as arborvitae, hemlock, and yew. Gardeners are routinely advised to choose deer-resistant plants instead. But what if you already have the hedge, and deer have already eaten it? What if your newly purchased home grounds are ringed by 20-foot trees that look like lopsided lollipops?

If space is severely limited, you may have to cut them down and start over with something else, but if you have a strip at least 12 feet wide to devote to the area, you can build a better hedge on the bones of what you have.

After all, it’s only the lower regions that need help. Everything above 6 to 8 feet is no doubt fine, and it will only grow lovelier over time. The trick is to go for depth: plant a shorter hedge in front, and you’ll screen the naked area from view while adding textural interest, just as you do when you plant a baptisia in front of rust-prone hollyhocks.

For best results, think in three layers: hurt hedge at the back; good-size shrubs or small trees like holly, lilac, and pieris in the middle; short, full items like mugo pine, boxwood, and barberry toward the front.

The most pleasing hedges have rhythm and rest, which cannot be achieved by a hodgepodge of “one of these and one of those,” so it will pay to limit your selections and plant multiples of each. But if the deer pressure is extreme, don’t do it right away. Instead, plant a test garden of likely candidates and wait a year to see just how deer resistant they actually are. (Deer vary considerably in their tastes, and a plant that escapes unscathed in one place may well get lunched in another.) It’s frustrating not to plunge right in, but waiting is worth it when you’ll be buying — and planting — large numbers of new shrubs.


Deerproofing the Hedges

There are a number of low-tech, low-cost repellents, including human hair, soap, hot pepper, and garlic, all of which have some deterrent effect, but none of these household items are as effective as commercial spray-on products, especially the ones with bitter components, which have been formulated to be long-lasting.

These once-a-winter formulations are expensive compared to sweepings from the barber shop, but they cost a lot less than fencing or replacement trees.


The Simple Daisy

by OCMGA Master Gardener Vicki Schilleman


From my garden: Shasta daisies snuggled next to Bee Balm

Other than the dandelion, what is the first flower you remember as a child? Is it a daisy? When we draw flowers, don’t we draw a simple daisy? When imagining a summer field of flowers, isn’t it the daisy we imagine?

Daisies have been around forever and are so often underestimated or overlooked when planning a garden. And yet, you can never have too many low-maintenance blooms! Deer-tolerant and disease-resistant, Shasta daisies should have a home in every garden!

Although we may think of daisies as the simply flower with the white petals, there are many, many cultivars that provide different colors for your garden plans. ‘Banana Cream’ Shasta daisy is easy care, even in the heat of summer. But that’s not the only benefit of this beautiful, long-blooming perennial.


From my garden: the yellow blooms of ‘Banana Cream’ Shasta daisy among the purple flowers of catmint

Its large 4- to 5-inch flowers are stunning in midsummer. Semidouble, they open pale lemon-yellow — a unique hue for Shasta daisy. In a few days, blooms slowly fade to creamy white. Plants are covered in flowers ranging from shades of pastel yellow and cream.

No matter which stage blooms are in, though, their golden yellow centers are a big draw for butterflies. Snip stems back to a leaf function lower on the plant, so it’s not so noticeable, for long-lasting cut flowers. Two or three weeks later, you should get a slight rebloom, though flowers will be fewer and smaller.

A compact grower that spreads to form neat clumps, ‘Banana Cream’ doesn’t splay open in the middle, like some other Shasta daisies. It has a densely branched habit, for lots of flowers — even on side shoots — and branches are thicker, too, so sturdy stems don’t flop in the rain. Plus, ‘Banana Cream’ won’t give you the same disease problems as older cultivars susceptible to stem rot, leaf spot, or verticillium wilt — it’s green foliage stays good-looking throughout the season.

This Shasta daisy likes a spot in full sun, although it will tolerate some afternoon shade in areas with very hot summers. Because it’s compact, ‘Banana Cream’ works well in containers or at the front to middle of a border. Once established, it doesn’t mind dry soil, but wet soil in winter can kill plants, so be sure to choose a well-drained site. Every two or three years, divide a crowding cluster in early spring to keep plants blooming vigorously.

Discouraging the Deer from Feasting on Your Garden

Keeping some of the flowers away from the deer!

Keeping some of the flowers away from the deer!

Have you come up with creative ways to keep the deer from enjoying your gardens more than you do? The best approach my family has come up with is to build fences. This has been especially important around the vegetable garden or they would reap our entire harvest. They don’t seem to be very picky though and enjoy many types of flowers too.

Here’s just a sample of the many ways gardeners try to keep the deer away: mothballs, peppermint, ultrasonic devices, hair, fabric softener and blood meal.  Success with any of these seems to vary for each and every gardener. Location of your garden in relation to other deer snacks, like fully operational farms or deep forest and the presence of other animals outside are also important factors impacting how much the deer may eat.

Keeping beautiful flowers from the deer may be an experiment in finding the plants your local herd doesn’t enjoy. Follow the link to an HGTV article that shares some suggestions for deterring the deer from your garden, with what they refer to as ‘deer resistant annuals’.


Written and posted by Rachel